alfanso's blog

"Ciabatta are like geodes, their true beauty is hidden until you slice them.".  Don, our superb baker MTloaf, provided this wise comment recently.  

Lately I've been on a ciabatta reign of baking terror, starting last month with the Kingdom Bakery version a pair of times.  Then returned to my levain version of Scott MeGee's ciabatta.  Most recently moved back to my biga version of same.  With 40% PFF at 66% hydration, I've had good results with these.

However, tinker I must and decided to double the PFF to 80% for the biga while maintaining the same 66% hydration.  Only once before had I used such a high percentage of PFF - a few years ago with Abel Sierra's 90% PFF very very stiff biga (think Piergiorgio Giorilli's ciabatta), but that was for his boule formula.  The major differences in those two bigas vs. this 66% hydration biga are the simpler initial biga mixing, shorter maturation time and ultimately a much much easier handling preferment and incorporation into the final dough.  This biga triples in about 12 hours, so the growth is easy to judge.

And I have to say that the dough felt better at every step of the way.  The first change noticed was a big one - during the mixing phase. 

Once all are incorporated I mix on high speed until I get a strong gluten development that slaps the sides of my 35 year old Kitchen Aid J-hook mixer's bowl.  This action may take somewhere about 15-17 minutes total with both the levain and biga versions, total time including the multiple stops to clear the sides of the bowl and the hook. With this 80% PFF mix, the entire phase including starts and stops, took just under 7 minutes.  Almost immediately I could see the gluten develop and when I emptied the mixer the dough strength was quite apparent.

All three folds in the tub indicated a stronger dough, as did the divide and shape.  The resultant bake showed a greater loft, few large holes, and a more delicate lighter sweeter crumb.  My taste-testing neighbor, an Italy born and raised gal, declared this version my best yet.  I might find it hard to disagree.

*With this 80% PFF version, the biga does not have to be chilled as the mixing friction is reduced greatly by the faster gluten development.

The lighting on this last picture is off, as the true color is more accurate on the previous pictures.

~500g x 3 ciabatta loaves

The Community Bake posting can be found here

Perhaps to stimulate some thoughts about what you wish to try, here are five breads I’ve recently baked and which ventured into my own no comfort zone.  Keep in mind that this is my personal version of this CB, and merely here to give examples of what took me out of my own personal comfort zone.   If it provides some ideas for you, all the better.

For each of these I provide a  "Why this is out of my Comfort Zone”  to explain what makes this bake out of the ordinary for me.  Please provide your own for whatever you decide to post.

All of the “rules” and general instructions can be found in the CB.

In my part of the world it is called koulouri (bread ring).  Years back when I was a kid there were salesmen of this walking the streets in Greece selling them.  They typically stack hundreds of them on a wooden platform which they will carry on their shoulder.  Amazingly skilled I had never seen or heard of one of them dropping the platform and spilling them.  Back then each cost one drahma which was the equivalent of maybe 5 - 10 cents. You handed the drahma to the guy and picked one from the stack and went your way.  Those times are gone now and only exist in memory.  They are sold now in bakeries and pastry shops each of them now a few euros.

Why this is out of my Comfort Zone: I’ve yet to bake a bagel.  This version of a simit “requires” a single strand to be doubled over and braided onto itself before sealing closed, and there is a molasses water dip for the ring before applying the sesame seeds.  

These are “fun” and easy to make, and a nice companion to place on a dessert table.  And with some practice I might even be able to get these to be rounder!

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The Community Bake posting can be found here

Posted my first experience with the Kingdom Bakery Ciabatta the other day, and was pleased with the results, but tinker I must.

Changes this time employed a trifecta of pro baker's techniques, starting with the Kingdom mixing and BF, followed by the Ciril Hitz method of divide, and then the Scott MeGee method of shaping. 

The final three folds were performed on a watered bench-top with no flour. And I ensured that after each fold I returned the dough to the vessel seam side down.  

The dough was incredibly active at the three hour BF mark, yielding a very jiggly and unstable mass for divide and shaping, more so than with the Scott MeGee formula.  This made the dough difficult to shape in the Scott MeGee style, something that I've grown to greatly prefer.  The loaves were well floured (read as too much flour for my tastes) and therefore no issue to remove from the couche, basically merely rolling the loaf over on the couche and handling it from the ends.  The first was the shortest and most difficult to shape.

These baked several minutes less time than the last batch, and the lighter coloration and denser, heavier loaf testifies to this.  Still quite tasty.

After the last bake I was asked whether my BF had tripled.  Here is the today BF with the black dot indicating where it began. 3 hrs @78dF.

Overall I feel as though there was some technique improvements, and a better loft on the loaves, but I was expecting more from the shaping, which is usually not much of an issue with me.

1500g = 3 ciabatta loaves.

Now my second post of a bread from the Kingdom Bakery videos.  The prior was for a polenta based bread.  And his method of mixing and folding this dough had me curious enough.  Also this employs a poolish, something I hadn't done before with ciabatta, as it was always either biga or levain.  

A third curiosity for me is the low hydration.  At 73% this is certainly the lowest hydration ciabatta that I've ever made.  And it all went along smoothly. Of course with learning my way though this.  

I would have rather had shorter length loaves, but that will be corrected, along with other minor corrections, the next time.  I already like this method and formula.

A very soft crumb, and an extra-crunchy crust.  Just what I like!

Ed. The dough is actually 76% hydration with the consideration that the oil is a liquid and is to be included in the overall hydration.

500g x 3 ciabatta loaves

Came across this  YT video and thought I'd give it a whirl.  Trying to spreadsheet a formula from the video's posted percentages and amounts, and nothing really meshed, so I had to massage the spreadsheet for a while to get the amounts into percentages.  And he is off by more than a very small amount on the hydration and minor amounts elsewhere.  

Once that was saved and printed, off I went.  The formula creates a quite sticky dough which should, according to the baker, double and become soft and billowy within ~2-3 hours of BF time.  Mine barely moved.  So I threw it into the refrigerator, for "later".  

And went back to the formula, changed a few parameters and ran it again later the same day.  This time I cut down on the hydration, bumped up the WW to 20% and upped the PFF to 20%.   Less sticky, but same BF result, only with a little more volume, but nowhere near doubled.  Another into retard.

Both were shaped this morning and sent back to retard once more.  The second batch was less sticky and easier to shape.  2 consecutive bakes as these are too large to place all 4 across my oven deck.

The pair with the double score is from the first batch, the single score is the second batch.

The "original" formula:

The 20% WW version on the left has a more pronounced flavor than the "original" on the right.  Due to the higher hydration the right loaf would seem to be more open crumbed throughout, but I haven't cut beyond this yet.

725g x 4 batards

Here you will find all five breads that I’m promoting for the current CB.  All of the “rules” and general instructions can be found in the CB.

============== the first three ===================

 

1) One of TFL’s resident Kiwis, leslieruf offers her version.

NOTE: Due to a misunderstanding of American English/Transcription error, the original Tom Cat formula that previously was posted below carried an absurdly high overall 89% hydration.  Thanks to an email conversation with Abe, it was determined that the Poolish was incorrectly stated.  The corrected version is now in its place, with an Poolish hydration of 90% and an overall hydration of 75%.  The 45/55 % or AP/Semolina still remains.

1) semolina_man baked a delightful version of this bread.

2) As does dmsnyder, David's interpretation.

Pane di Altamura/Matera. These two neighboring towns, in the heel region of the Italian peninsula, produce rather uniquely shaped (or mis-shapen) breads. 

Altamura is 100% semolina including a 66% hydration biga, with a relatively low overall hydration of 65%.  

Matera is also 100% semolina including a 50% hydration levain / lievito madre with a 66% overall hydration.

1) Our own breadforfun’s Brad did a field trip there several years ago, and reports on his experience and bake.

2) Baker anonymous, better known as Abe, offers us his version.

EDIT.  Build 3 above should read 150g Sem., 75g Water

3) I tried my hand at this one as well.

============== Additional formulae ===================

1) Early TFL star, zolablue provides a magnificent looking levain bread flour version. 

2) Recent rising star baker benito, Benny's, take on Ms. Glezer’s levain bread flour.

============== end ===================

Here you will find the three formulae for the three NY Jewish Bakery/Deli Rye Breads from the Community Bake for rye breads. Refer to the CB for details.

Aviso! For the first two breads do not proof the loaves directly on a couche.  They will stick mercilessly, the clean-up will be significant and may ruin your couche.  I have no experience using a dutch oven type of vessel with these, so I cannot advise what you should or shouldn't do.

Eric Hanner's Rye Sponge Rye Bread

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David's detailed Rye Sour walkthrough

This is what the completed 3rd stage of the rye sour should look like

David Snyder's Rye Sour Rye Bread (12/05, updated from original post)

(12/07 formula updated to reflect David's updated Rye Sour 3 stage Build)

You can use a loaf pan for proofing.  The pans are sprayed with a light coating of oil and then floured, seam side up.

I prefer the following method...Blocking the sides of the loaf to avoid the dough spreading out laterally.  This will maintain a consistent shape and provide some loft.  Used on both the Hanner as well as this dough.

The key to getting a good score was to use my serrated bread knife (which I didn't use on the above breads).  These first two doughs are hell-bent on having your scoring blade get stuck and drag.  The bread knife with a swift motion will teach that dough a lesson!

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Alfanso's AP Levain Rye Bread

This dough, although basically the same percentages of rye and hydration, will provide a completely different experience.  As can be seen, it is easily formed into baguette shape.

And now...it's your turn!

Last week Stephen (Brotkraft) posted his first blog entry.  A short video on how he recommends getting an open crumb.  Okay, after a very few back and forth Qs & As with the engaging Signore Brotkraft, I decided to take the plunge.

His method generally involves a 3 hr undisturbed autolyse from shaggy mass to window.  I couldn't quite replicate his level of window, but it was successful.  At the same time, his second build of levain is timed to meet the 3 hours set aside for autolyse.  So, what did I do that was different from my standard Hamelman Vermont SD?  The first 4 on the list were my changes from my standard M.O.

• Bumped the hydration from 65% to 72%, else the autolyse would be way too dry.
• With no first build, used existing refrigerated starter.  Mixed all of the rye flour in the 100% hydr. levain to get a more active build within the target 3 hr. window.
• Hand mix levain & salt to incorporate, 5 min rest.  40 French Folds, 5 min rest, 20 FFs.
• Bulk Fermented for 2 hours with only a single Letter Fold at the 60 min. mark.
• Retard.  Divide, pre-shape w/30 min rest, and shape somewhere in the middle of the 12-14 hr retard.
• Bake w/ steam 460dF 13 min, rotate loaves, 10 min more, 2 min venting.

A different approach than my usual usual!  But for a first time out I think that the evidence is at least compelling to start. When I next replicate this method, I'll form a shorter pre-shape as the dough was quite extensible and just about rolled itself out.

The open crumb? The proof is in the pudding.  Or in this case, the bread...

Thank you Stephen, your input was put to good use within a week of your posting.

300g x 4 long batards.

At this rate, I might catch Benny!

A second run at Danni's semolina cranberry/wild rice levain.  With some obvious changes afoot compared to my first attempt.  The wild rice didn't float my boat so I 86'ed it.  The quick and dirty on this version's mods:

• hydration now at 72%
• Semolina boosted to 35%, AP flour dropped to 65%
• added pecans, and a hint of orange peel
• eliminated 2 of the 4 Letter Folds, now down to 50 & 100 min with final 20 min rest before retard.

These were begging to be baked dark, and who am I to argue?  Although I adore semolina based breads, the orange peel and cranberry combination, while delicious, overwhelmed it.  May try using a whole grain next time instead.

Gerhard suggested the orange peel, and he was right on the money, as it adds a distinct flavor that marries well with the cranberry.

If this were a production bread, the cost of it would be fairly high as the inclusions here are quite costly compared to a FWS version.

I was pleased that the scores went well, as sometimes these types of baguettes, laden with fruit and nuts, will get oven bloom, but not a decent enough ear.  I also find that, in general, these breads in baguette form are less likely to display an open crumb for me.

A modestly intermittent problem is the even distribution of inclusions.  As I mix by hand, the add-ins don't arrive until the first Letter Fold, and as often as not wind up being unevenly spread across the length and breadth of the dough.

A thin crust with a distinctive snap/crack to the bite.  Just my style.

365g x 3 long batards