I’ve always loved the idea of babkas when I first saw them on the internet. They look so shiny and sticky and yummy. Now that I have sent John Dough to rehab and have him on an all rye diet I thought I would test him out and build a white levain to raise this my first babka. My old starter could never raise a good white starter, I’d always have to add some whole grain of some sort to it for it to have an adequate rise. So you can imagine my surprise when I made this levain 1:4:4 fermented at 78ºF overnight and after six hours (I had some insomnia that night) and I could see that it had risen 3x volume and was already falling! Anyhow, onto the babka. What follows is Maurizio’s sourdough babka recipe from theperfectloaf.com however, I made my own filling for it instead of the chocolate or cinnamon that he has on his website.
Total Formula
Weight | Ingredient | Baker’s Percentage |
357g | All-purpose flour (11-12% protein; King Arthur All-Purpose Flour) | 100.00% |
107g | Whole milk (cold from the fridge) | 30.00% |
107g | Large eggs (about 2, cold from the fridge, plus one more egg in reserve for the egg wash) | 30.00% |
100g | Unsalted butter (Kerrygold; room temperature) | 28.00% |
46g | Water | 13.00% |
29g | Caster sugar (superfine white sugar) | 8.00% |
8g | Salt | 2.30% |
46g | Sourdough starter (100% hydration) | 13.00 |
Dough Mix
My final dough temperature for this dough was 76°F (24°C). See my post on the importance of dough temperature for more information.
Weight | Ingredient |
310g | All-purpose flour (11-12% protein; King Arthur All-Purpose Flour) |
107g | Whole milk (cold from the fridge) |
107g | Large eggs (about 2; cold from the fridge) |
100g | Unsalted butter (Kerrygold; room temperature) |
29g | Caster sugar (superfine white sugar) |
8g | Salt |
138g | Mature, but mild, levain |
Method
1. Build Levain – 10:00 a.m. (or when your starter is mature)
In the morning, mix together the following in a small jar:
All-purpose flour | 46g |
Water (warm) | 46g |
Mature sourdough starter | 46g |
Loosely cover the jar; it should be ready after about 3 hours at a warm temperature, 78-80°F (26-27°C). If it’s cold in your kitchen, warm the mixing water for this levain to get close to 80°F (27°C).
2. Mix – 1:00 p.m.
Before mixing, take out the butter called for in the recipe and cut it into 1/2″ pats. Let it sit at room temperature until called for.
I used my KitchenAid stand mixer to mix this dough. To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add the mature levain, flour, whole milk, large eggs, salt, and half of the sugar. Set the mixer to low and mix until everything is incorporated. Let the dough rest, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
After the 10 minute rest, turn the mixer up to medium and mix for 5 minutes until the dough starts to pull from the sides of the mixing bowl. At this point, slowly stream in the remaining sugar while the mixer is running. Mix for another 1-2 minutes until the dough comes back together.
With the mixer still set to medium, add the room temperature butter, one pat at a time, waiting to add the next until the previous is absorbed into the dough. It might take around 5 minutes to mix all the butter into the dough. After all of the butter is added, continue mixing for another few minutes until the dough smooths out and once again begins to cling to the dough hook. The dough should be almost fully developed at this point (it won’t completely pass the windowpane test, but almost).
Transfer the dough to a container for bulk fermentation, cover, and keep somewhere warm—78-80°F (26-27°C)—in your kitchen for bulk fermentation.
3. Warm Bulk Fermentation – 1:25 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. (or longer, as needed)
During this time, give the dough 2 sets of stretch and folds where the first set is 30 minutes after the beginning of bulk fermentation and the second set is 30 minutes after the first. After the second set, let the dough rest, covered, until the next step.
4. Cold Bulk Fermentation – 3:30 p.m. to 8:00 a.m. (next day)
Assess the dough: has it risen a little in the bowl during the warm bulk fermentation? It should be a little puffy and smoothed out. If it looks like there’s no activity at all, give the dough another 30 minutes to 1 hour and check again.
Once you see some rise in the dough, place the covered bulk fermentation bowl into the refrigerator overnight.
Same day option: I much prefer making this over the course of two days, but you could make this all in one day: let the dough finish bulk fermentation for 2-3 hours on the counter. When the dough has risen around 50% and feels puffy, proceed with the rest of the steps below. However, I do recommend placing the dough in the fridge for at least 1 hour after this warm bulk fermentation to chill before rolling out!
5. Roll, freeze, cut, and shape – 8:00 a.m.
Before taking the dough out of the refrigerator, make one of the fillings below (keep the filling covered until ready to use):
For the Cranberry Orange Filling:
-1 bag frozen cranberries
- ¾ cup light brown sugar
- juice of ½ orange
- zest of one orange
- toasted walnuts chopped ½ cup
Cook down first 4 ingredient in a small pot until thickened adjust sweetness. Allow to cool before using.
In the morning, take the dough out of the refrigerator and scrape the dough out to a floured work surface. Flour the top of the dough and using a rolling pin (or dowel), roll the dough out to a rectangle approximately 10″ x 12″ in size with a short edge closest to your body. I think that it needs to be rolled out more than 12” in length in order to get more layers in each roll and a better ratio of filling to bread.
If you want a less-sweet, less-sticky babka, spread less filling over the rolled out dough.
Using your hand or an offset spatula, spread the filling over the dough leaving about 1″ clean on the short side farthest from you. Starting at the side closest to you, roll up the dough into a tight cylinder. It’s important for the dough to be rolled up rather tight, so pull the dough at each revolution of the cylinder.
Important: Place the rolled-up log on a baking sheet and place it into the freezer for 15 minutes (this makes it much easier to cut and braid).
Prepare your baking pan by inserting a piece of parchment so two “handles” stick up at the long sides of the pan (see photo above). The parchment will drape down one long side, over the bottom, and up the other side. Once it fits, take it out and place it on the counter next to your pan.
After the 15-minute freezer rest, take the baking sheet out of the freezer and return the dough log to the counter. Using a sharp knife, cut the log to split open the log from one side to the other. Pinch the two top halves together and braid the dough one strand over the other. At the bottom, pinch the two halves together again. Don’t worry if filling spills out or things get messy — it’s all good.
After the dough is braided, pick up the braid and place it on the parchment right in the middle, then pick up the sides of the parchment and lift the dough up and drop it into the pan.
Cover the pan and place it somewhere warm, ideally, 78-80°F (26-27°C), to proof.
6. Proof – 8:30 a.m. 12:00 p.m. (or until ready)
This dough can be slow to rise at this point. Give it the time it needs to rise up to about 1/2″ below the rim of the Pullman pan. For me, at 78°F (26°C), it took about 3.5 hours. See the image below for how high my dough filled my pan.
7. Bake – 12:00 p.m.
Preheat your oven with the rack in the middle to 350°F (176°C) — no fan assist (no convection).
When the oven is preheated and the babka dough is fully proofed, place the pan on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (to catch any sugar spilling over). In a small bowl, whisk together one whole egg and 1 Tbsp water and brush a thin layer of the egg wash on the top of the dough. Then, slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake for 40-45 minutes until the center of the babka reaches 200°F (93°C). Keep an eye on the babka in the last 10 minutes of the bake, if it’s coloring too quickly drop the temperature to compensate.
While the babka is baking, make the simple syrup. In a small saucepan heat over low 52g (1/4 cup) granulated sugar with 59g (1/4 cup) water. Heat until the mixture bubbles a bit and stir occasionally until the sugar fully dissolves in the water. Transfer this simple syrup to a container to cool. If covered, it will keep indefinitely in the fridge (I reuse over and over for babka, other baked goods, or even cocktails).
When the babka is fully baked, remove the pan to a cooling rack. Using a plastic spatula, free the short sides of the babka (the sides without parchment) from the sides and bottom of the pan by pressing the spatula down from top to bottom.
Using a pastry brush, brush on a thin layer of the simple syrup. The amount you put on is up to you: the more you add the sweeter the crust will become. Let the babka rest for 10 minutes in the pan. Do not let the babka rest for longer than 10 minutes or it’ll be hard to remove from the pan.
After the rest, lift the babka out of the pan using the parchment paper sticking up as a set of handles. You might have to use a spatula and pry it out a bit, but be gentle. Remove from the parchment paper and let it rest on a wire rack until cool to the touch. It’s even better if it sits for an hour or so to let the crust fully harden.
I actually don’t have a Pullman pan and instead have a shallower loaf pan. I allowed the dough to final proof to about 1 cm above the rim of the pan before baking. I am going to order a Pullman because I don’t like the look of the muffin top my shallow loaf pan causes this to have.