The Fresh Loaf

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Soundman's picture
Soundman

Sourdough boules

Sourdough boules pic 1

Sourdough boules pic 1 

Sourdough boules pic 2

Sourdough boules pic 2

OK, I'm new to uploading images, so if I didn't do this right, somebody please let me know the right way to get one's images into a post.

I had been contributing to the responses to Somegeek's 'My First Loaves (pics)' forum thread and watching Hans bake amazing loaves and I figured it was time to stop writing and do some baking.

These are sourdough boules made using Jeffrey Hamelman's 'Vermont Sourdough' recipe in his wonderful book 'Bread' as a guide. My sourdough starter is around 7 weeks old by now. I bulk fermented the dough for around 3 1/2 hours, folding 2 times during this phase. Then I shaped the loaves and let them proof in bannetons for an hour before retarding in the fridge for 12 hours. After taking them out I let the loaves warm up for 2 hours while I preheated the oven to 465 degrees. Then I removed them from the bannetons, slashed (not so well), and baked, using a steam pan on the bottom rack and a spritzer bottle a couple of times in the first 3 or 4 minutes. After 10 minutes I turned the loaves and removed the steam-pan, turning the oven down to 440 and baking another 22 minutes.

The loaves have a lovely airy crumb, which I will take a picture of, and a nice crunchy crust. The crust is a deep dark brown, maybe a little darker than I expected, especially toward the bottom, and the internal temperature was 205 degrees (or more). There are some light and tantalizing sour notes, but I thought with the 12 hour retarding it would have gained a more full sour taste. I was reading Maggie Glezer's 'Artisan Baking' book, where she says that the temperature for developing the acetic lactobacillus is around 68 degrees, which got me thinking. My kitchen was around 75 degrees last night. Has anyone tried bulk fermentation of sourdough where the dough is retarded for just, say, a half hour at a time, alternating with longer stretches at room temperature? I ask because doing so would get several periods during which the dough would be at Glezer's optimal temp for developing the sour in the sourdough.

I'm not new to baking bread, but I am to baking sourdough. As all you experienced sourdough bakers already know, there is something magical about making great-tasting bread without commercial yeast. I felt that thrill this time!

Soundman (David)

foolishpoolish's picture
foolishpoolish

Intermediate build versus direct (with daily starter maintenance)

I'm currently keeping most of my starters on a 24 hour feed cycle.  Since only a very small amount of old starter is needed to build this up over the 24 hour period, there is typically enough 'spare' starter at the end of a cycle to make bread by mixing a 'direct dough' without the need for intermediate builds. 

My question is: How will this affect the results (compared to using an intermediate build)?  The purpose of the intermediate build as I understand, is twofold. Firstly you can build up a lot of active levain from a very small amount of 'mother' starter (important in a bakery situation where you have to make a lot of bread) Secondly, you are benefitting from the complexity of flavours that come from using a preferment. 

Since I have plenty of starter to use at the end of the feed cycle, the first of these issues (amount of starter required) is irrelevant.  The second issue of flavour would be addressed, I *think* by the fact that my starter is effectively the same as a 24 hour intermediate build.

The only other difference that I can see being an issue is specific to a given recipe.  For example, if a recipe requires a particular mix of flours or hydration and/or temperature for the intermediate build or there is a complex process involving  the incorporation of different ingredients over 3 or more builds (eg Panettone).

Please, I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.  The results seem to be fine in my opinion but I do wonder if I'm missing out on something.

Thanks

--FP 

 

Marni's picture
Marni

starter not rising noticably

My 3+ month old starter doesn't seem to rise much lately.  It does a little when it's left out, but it doesn't seem to at all in the fridge.  My breads are rising fine and taste sour or not depending on how I treat them, but I wonder if the starter is as healthy as it should be. 

When it is on the counter I feed it twice a day as it gets very foamy, fluffy and rises a bit and falls.  In the fridge, I feed it about every three days or so, although sometimes sooner because it develops hooch.

I feed it flour equal in volume to the starter but with a bit less water to make a fairly thick batter.  Mostly I feed it KA AP, but sometimes add a bit of organic whole grain rye.

Since it seems to work well, I've assumed things are fine, but then I realized I could be wearing it down or something without knowing it and I'd be sunk.

I guess the short question to this long post is- If a starter doesn't rise after a feeding is it still healthy?

Thanks,

Marni

mikeofaustin's picture
mikeofaustin

Kitchenaid mixers. Hobart Vs. "The current ones".

Does anyone suggest the original hobart line of kithenaid mixers are worth getting? I know that the new ones absolutely are a peice of plastic garbage.  And if anyone currently has the original, can you tell me how much dough it's capable of kneeding?

pmccool's picture
pmccool

Levy's Real Jewish Rye

I had occasion to try several new things last weekend: Rose Levy Berenbaum's recipe for "Levy's" Real Jewish Rye Bread, one of my recently acquired bannetons from SFBI, and the Pampered Chef equivalent of a La Cloche (which has been sitting around unused for years).  This also marked the second time that I have made bread on the new soapstone countertops that were recently installed.

The recipe comes from RLB's "The Bread Bible".  The bread contains 3.3 oz of rye flour, vs. 8.5 oz of bread flour, so it is scarcely any more sticky than a wheat dough would be.  And with 2 tablespoons of caraway seeds, rye isn't the dominant flavor.  The bread begins with a yeasted sponge, which is allowed to ferment 1-4 hours.  It eventually bubbles through a flour layer that is placed on top of the sponge:

Fermented sponge 

Once the sponge has fermented, the flour mixture, oil and salt are stirred in.  The dough is then kneaded and left to ferment under an overturned bowl for a 20-minute rest:

Resting dough

After the dough has rested, it is kneaded again and then allowed to rise until it is doubled.  At that point, it is given a letter fold, then returned to the bowl until it doubles again.  After the second rise, the dough is flattened slightly and then shaped into a ball and allowed to rise until it has doubled.  Ms. Levy recommends that the final rise after shaping occur in a covered bowl.  I opted to use a fabric-lined banneton, dusted with rice flour, covering the exposed surface with plastic wrap to keep it from drying.

Ms. Levy suggests baking either on a baking sheet with steam, or in a cloche.  In both cases, she recommends having a baking stone in the oven as it preheats, then setting either the baking sheet or the (also preheated) cloche on the baking stone.  It seemed like overkill, but I followed the instructions as given, using the cloche.  The risen loaf was tipped out onto parchment paper, slashed, then placed in the cloche and covered.  I'll need to practice the technique a bit.  I was a bit gun-shy about burning myself on either the cloche base or its lid, so I wasn't as gentle with placing the loaf as I should have been.  It deflated slightly but recovered most of the loss with oven spring.

Based on the directions, I pulled the cover from the cloche about 10 minutes before the estimated completion of the baking time, expecting that it would finish browning during those last few minutes.  Instead, I saw that the loaf was already well-browned.  So, I stuck a thermometer in it, which quickly registered 210F.  At that point I declared it done and placed it on the rack to cool.  Here's how it looked:

Cooling rye bread

And a shot of the crumb, taken the next morning:

Crumb of Levy's rye

More of the color comes from the malt syrup in the recipe than from the whole rye flour that I used.  The crumb is firm and moist, the crust thin and chewy.  It makes a mean ham and Swiss sandwich. While I like caraway in a rye bread, the amount in this bread is more than I would use for my tastes.  Next time I make it, I will either cut back on the caraway, or substitute fennel or dill, which will be more to my liking. 

Thank you, RLB.  This is good stuff!

Paul

saintdennis's picture
saintdennis

bread alone

   I'm reading the book "Bread Alone" by Daniel Leader.The problem is on the page 58, temperature of flour,temperature of your kitchen and friction factor. What is factor?? If I mix the dough one minute that the dough will rise 1F and if I will mix it let's say 20 minutes that the dough will rise 20F??? He is saying that his friction factor number is 14. He is saying 60 F flour temperature, 80 F kitchen temperature and 14 F friction factor total is 154 F then 240 F ideal total minus 154 F real total is 86 F temperature to make the water. How he found the friction number with out the mix water and flour first??

 

                                 Saintdennis

holds99's picture
holds99

Ciabatta loaves made from Rose Levy Beranbaums Bread Bible and Bread Board

These are ciabatta loaves I made using Rose Levy's Bread Bible recipe.  She doesn't call for "stretch and fold" in her recipe but I did 3 very gentle stretch and folds during proofing, then divided the dough into 4 equal pieces and it seemed to give the loaves better rise and crumb.  The dough is very wet so I very lightly floured the work surface and top of the dough when doing "stretch and fold" (be careful with the amount of flour used to dust the dough or it will leave tell tale lines embedded in the interior of final loaf).  I very lightly dusted with flour before each of the 3 "stretch and fold" procedures (at 30 minute intervals).  Some folks use water on the counter and water on their hands but I found this dough to be so wet that if you use water you destroy some of the air bubbles that is so important for the light airy texture you're trying to achieve.  Anyway, after final proofing I divided and shaped them (her recipe is for 1 loaf, I made 4 loaves) for final proofing on parchment lined baking pans placed, coveded with a large clear rectangular plastic storage bin that accomodates two baking pans containing the 4 loaves.  I think the "stretch and fold" technique helped produce a better, more open crumb in the ciabatta loaves and gave them better oven spring.

 

Ciabatta Loaves No 1Ciabatta Loaves No 1

 

 

Ciabatta Loaves No 2Ciabatta Loaves No 2

I had mentioned previously, in a response to a question re: getting the ciabatta loaves off the work surface and onto a parchment lined pan or baking stone, that I made a bread board using a legal size clip board with the clip hardware removed.  My wife purchased a pair of panty hose for the project and here's a photo of the front side of the bread board with the panty hose stretched over the surface.  It works well with wet dough, as the dough doesn't stick to the nylon.  I moved the loaves from the work surface onto the nylon covered bread board and then onto parchment lined bread pans for final proofing.  This photo below (Bread Board No 1) is the work side of the board, where the loaf is placed on the board.  It is hard to see but the board is covered with the nylon hose.  If you wanted to make a longer bread board (and have an oven that will accomodate longer loaves) you could use thin plywood cut to the size you need and sanded to take of the rough edges after cutting the shape.

 

Bread Board No 1Bread Board No 1

 

The photo below is the back side of the bread board, with the nylon hose tightly pulled across the front side of the board and tied on the back side.  You could, if you wish, tape the back side with packing tape.  I didn't bother and it works fine.  I also use the board for baguettes (up to 18 inches long) and batards, when removing them from the couche and placing them onto parchment lined pans.  During the final 10 minutes of baking they can be removed from the parchment line baking pan(s) and placed directly on the baking stone to finish out the baking phase, if one wishes to use the stone as the preferred method.  After use I let the board dry completely at room temperature, dust off the excess flour and store it in a plastic bag for the next use.

Bread Board No 2Bread Board No 2

obrien1984's picture
obrien1984

Working with rye dough

Last night was my first attempt at a rye loaf. The texture of the dough was completely different than anything I had worked with before (usually I bake 100% whole wheat), and I was wondering if perhaps I did something wrong.

I used the recipe for 65% sourdough rye in Reinhardt's WGB. I used Hodgson Mills All Natural Stone Ground Rye Flour and King Arthur Whole Wheat.

Rather than a soft, slightly sticky, homogenous, dough, the rye dough was more like modeling clay. For example, when I tried to shape it into a ball (by tucking the sides underneath), it just split on the top. Instead of stretching, it just broke apart. I tried adding more water, but it became gooey and sticky. I don't see how it would be possible to shape this in the traditional method of stretching and folding, as it lacked both elasticity and extensibility.

Is this the correct texture?

The resulting 32 oz loaf was quite dense and chewy, but very good. I was pleasantly surprised by the taste, which was much milder than the caraway-laden rye bread I remember from the fried fish sandwiches of my childhood.

 Thanks so much for reading! I look forward to your responses, oh wise Internet!

 

Joseph 

Anonymous baker's picture
Anonymous baker (not verified)

Cracked Oven Glass

Ever since I read the BBA, bread baking finally made sense and it finally clicked for me.  (Better Homes & Gardens Cookbook's bread section--what a waste!)

 I've been been baking bread...a LOT.  As much as I can manage it--which is several times a week.  I'd probably bake more, but my family and the occasional unsuspecting neighbor can only eat so much so fast.

 However--the other day I came across the worst thing ever!  I opened my cold oven to put a cookie sheet in it for storage purposes (smallish kitchen) and noticed that the glass on my oven door (the peep thru window) was cracked!!!  Not one crack but several.

 I'm the ONLY one in my house that uses the oven.  And I never slam it.  EVER.  

What I'm wondering is it possible that it cracked either a)having the oven at 500 on occasion (not normal several months ago) or b) creating steam?   or c) just a fluke?

I confess I've baked a few times since noticing this without a noticeable problem..but how long do I have before I need to replace it?  Can one replace just an oven door?  I've tried looking on the manufacturer's website to no avail.

=( 

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Something to do with bread: Crostini

The sourdough bread is cool enough to slice, and the oven is now free to roast the chicken for dinner. The chicken liver, heart and gizzard are sitting there, forlorn and neglected. Don't let it happen! Make crostini! 

 

Crostini
2 T olive oil 
1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
1 large chicken liver, chopped very fine
1 chicken gizzard chopped very fine 
1/4 tsp dried tarragon
Dash or two of salt
4-6 grindings of black pepper
3 T of Marsala  

 Heat a small frying pan on medium heat. Add olive oil and shallots. Saute until translucent. 

Add the gizzard and saute to brown (2-4 minutes). Then add the liver and saute until no longer pink, mashing the mixture while it is cooking.

Add the salt and pepper and tarragon and mix well.

Add the marsala and let evaporate, mixing frequently, until the mixture is still moist, but there is no free liquid left.

Transfer to a small bowl and serve with thin slices of sourdough baguette.

 

Enjoy!

 

David 

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