The Fresh Loaf

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JonJ's picture
JonJ

Sourlotti by Abby has a great way for making an 'oat porridge' bread that has worked out well for me before. I think it might be the amount of butter in the soaker preparation that makes it work so much better for me? In any case, for this loaf I decided to eschew the butter and replace it with coconut oil which has been working very nicely for me as a substitute for butter in other recipes too like hamburger rolls.

Danni3ll3 made a bread with sprouted quinoa which was on my mind lately, and while I was prepping this bread I decided to use the white quinoa that I'd started soaking the night before for sprouting in this bread as well, even though it was intended originally for something else. The quinoa seeds didn't get much of an opportunity to sprout, and the stiff quinoa paste that I made out of them seemed flavourless, with only the merest sweet taste. This is what the quinoa paste looked like (basically soaked white quinoa seeds that had been moistened as if to sprout them, but only for 16 hours, and then ground in the food processor. Quite a stiff consistency. I added it together with the levain to the mix with the autolysed dough:




It was a bit bold to use that in this bread, in addition to the oat and flax soaker for which quite a lot is added - about 200g of that soaker was added by lamination to each loaf! But, miraculously it seemed to work out and the dough managed to hold all the extras in it.


Its hard to judge the hydration with these things - nominally a 93% hydration but a lot of that water is locked into the oats/flax in the soaker. And these loaves needed a long bake - 60 mins in total, because of the oat soaker. I squashed the one loaf a little trying to turn it 20 minutes in (when removing the steam trays). It was still very wet, even at that time and shouldn't have been touched.


The bread was nice to eat, and I did find myself choosing it over some of my other frozen loaves for quite a few days after. I would say though that it was fairly mild to the taste - the quinoa and oats didn't bring in as much flavour when compared to a bread like the 5 grain levain which I was mentally comparing it to. I do like the quinoa paste though and will probably try it again - it seemed to bake up nicely, and maybe next time I won't be so impatient and even give the quinoa a chance to sprout.

Econprof's picture
Econprof

My mother-in-law loves laminated pastries, so I decided to spoil her a little bit by making a few different ones while she was here. Of course, I am also spoiling my husband and myself because we now have an abundance of riches in the freezer. Not sure whether the lamination bug will continue or whether I am all laminated out.

First up: poolish croissants, https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/22677/poolish-croissant-pursuit-perfection

Then the chocolate marble loaf, https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/24684/sourdough-chocolate-marble-loaf-must-laminate-can039t-stop

And finally the danishes, https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/26777/cheese-danish-sourdough-all-american-beauty and https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/27707/two-kinds-danish-rolls-sweet-savory

I may have used excess filling in the swirls, preventing them from holding together well, but no one complained.

Txfarmer’s recipes are always wonderful and I wish I had the opportunity to thank her.

Also popular at our house: Benny’s 50% whole wheat cinnamon swirl bread, https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/71651/cinnamon-raisin-sourdough-milk-bread

I think this was my third time making it. 

And my favorite rusks for dipping in chai, https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/zwieback-recipe 

Benito's picture
Benito

Having to practice more to get the rust out of my processes and shaping.  I was able to get my preferred organic all purpose flour similar to T55 for baguettes.  Also continuing to see how far I can push fermentation with every so slightly more gluten development with each bake.  In this bake along with the Rubaud kneading in the bowl when adding the levain and later when adding the bassinage water, I did a total of 300 slap and folds.  These recent bakes do support the fact that doing more gluten development does support longer fermentation without loss of grigne/ears.  I’ve also adjusted my scoring a bit as the broken straps were bothering me.  Although I still overlap the scores still to avoid sausage appearance, I am consciously trying to leave the straps slightly wider, this seems to reduce the number of straps that break during oven spring.  To do this, I do have to score a bit outside the middle third lane of the baguette.

One thing that is now happening is that extensibility has increased substantially and my baguettes are too long for my baking steel and even for the cookie tray that the couche sits on.  So I over handled this set of baguettes.  After 20 mins in the couche, I decided to remove them to cut them a bit shorter, otherwise they would have drooped off the steel.  I know I degassed them somewhat during that process of over handling.  So I might reduce the dough weight a bit so they aren’t as long next time, or cold retard them en bulk at the end of bulk to tighten the gluten, not sure yet.

Overnight Levain build ferment 75°F 10-12 hours

78°F 9 hours to peak

 

When levain at peak, mix 28 g water with all the levain mixing to loosen.

 

In the morning, to your mixing bowl add 353 g water and diastatic malt 5.8 g to dissolve, then add 527 g AP flour to combine.  Allow to autolyse for 20 mins.  Next add the loosened levain and salt 12 g, pinch and stretch and fold to combine in the bowl.  Slap and fold x 100 then add hold back water 23 g gradually working in until fully absorbed by massaging and then Rubaud kneading the dough, then slap and fold x 200.

 

Bulk Fermentation 82*F until aliquot jar shows 20% rise.

Do folds every 20 mins doing 3 folds

Could do cold retard at this point for  up to overnight. (Aliquot jar 20% rise)

 

Divide and pre-shape rest for 15 mins

Shape en couche with final proof until aliquot jar shows 55% rise then (optional) cold retard shaped baguettes en couche for at least 15 minutes for easier scoring.  I often do this for convenience as the oven is pre-heating.

 

Pre-heat oven 500*F after 30 mins add Silvia towel in pan with boiling water.

Transfer baguettes from couche to peel on parchment

Score each baguette and transfer to oven, bake on steel.

Bake with steam pouring 1 cup of boiling water to cast iron skillet dropping temperature to 480*F. 

The baguettes are baked with steam for 13 mins.  The steam equipment is removed venting the oven of steam.  Transfer the baguettes from the baking steel to next rack completing baking directly on a rack to minimize the browning of the bottom crust.  The oven is dropped to 450ºF but convection is turned on and the baguettes bake for 10 mins rotating them halfway.  The baguettes are rotated again if needed and baked for another 3 mins to achieve a rich colour crust.

desem dujour's picture
desem dujour

Three loaves using 900 grams organic white winter wheat from starter...still Desem is the most delicious bread I have ever baked.

CalBeachBaker's picture
CalBeachBaker

Today's bake: EINKORN BROT

Source: Created by the Bialys and Farmers Market Breads Class - BBGA

Note:

Discussion:

This is my first attempt baking this bread and found the dough to be somewhat sticky and loose.

I milled at the finest setting some Einkorn Wheat Berries-100% Extract and used some cracked Einkorn Wheat Berries.

This bread's soft, moist crumb has a mild buttermilk/dairy taste with a soft, creamy texture and the crust a pleasing toasty/nut like flavor enhanced by the toasted sesame seeds.

This bread would pair nicely with most mild flavored foods or just toasted as a snack.

Make again? - Yes

Changes/Recommendations: None

Ratings

 

 

 

 

 

 

Benito's picture
Benito

Being back in Toronto I have access to ingredients that I couldn’t find in Fort Lauderdale Florida.  Yesterday I went to Chinatown and picked up some purple sweet potatoes and some BBQ Pork.  I’ve been wanting to try making fully sourdough (not hybrid with IDY) Baozi for a while, the last attempt at it didn’t go well.  Given the expense of buying BBQ Pork these needed to be successful and they were.  

The dough is quite stiff as is customary with these steamed buns so mixing my hand and kneading on the countertop are the way to go.  The dough comes together very quickly.  Because there is baking powder in these, the pH data is interesting.  Not surprisingly they start out with a high pH of 5.62 and at the time of steaming only dropped to 4.86.  Even the delta of only 0.76 is very low.  Some of that is definitely the baking powder but I also used a stiff sweet starter as well.  This kind of bread shouldn’t have a sour tang and these definitely did not.  In the future, I would increase the dough per baozi to 60-65 so I can get more filling into each.  As well, I would increase the final proof even more, these were steamed at 112% of rise for the second batch, I’d say I can go up incrementally to 120-125% next time as the dough performed well.

I did not use the optional IDY in this bake.

For 12 Baozi 

Make the Filling 

 

Filling Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons chicken stock
  • 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
  • 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine (or dry sherry)
  • 1 clove garlic , grated
  • 1/8 teaspoon five spice powder
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1 heaping cup (180 g / 6.5 oz) homemade char siu , diced (or store-bought char siu) 1.5 cups is better 
  • While the dough is resting, combine all the filling ingredients in a small pot except for the diced char siu. Mix until the cornstarch is dissolved fully.
  • Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until thickened, so you can draw a line on the bottom of the pot with a spatula, about 1 minute. Take the pot off the heat and let the mixture cool off. Once cooled, add the diced char siu and mix until it is evenly distributed.

 

Overnight Levain

In a large jar, combine all purpose flour, water, ripe sourdough starter, and sugar. Cover the jar loosely and let the levain ripen overnight at warm room temperature (I keep mine around 76°F to 78°F).

 

Tangzhong

In a sauce pan set on med heat with about 1.5 cm of water, place the bowl of your stand mixer creating a Bain Marie, whisk the milk and flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool.

 

In The Morning

In a mixing bowl, add the Tangzhong, water, milk, sugar and salt, mix to dissolve.  Add the stiff sweet levain and using a silicone spatula, cut the levain into small pieces.  Add the baking powder, cornstarch, oil and flour.  Mix to form a shaggy dough.  Allow to rest for 10 mins.  On your countertop knead the dough until good gluten development, this is a very stiff dough so I prefer to knead it manually to spare my mixer.  Spread about half of the mashed sweet potato on top of the flatten dough, fold and then repeat with the remaining mashed potato.  Knead the dough on the countertop until the mashed potatoes are well distributed.  Remove some dough for aliquot jar to follow rise.  Shape into a boule and rest in a covered bowl at 82°F until the dough has increased by 40%.

 

Prepare twelve 4” parchment squares.

 

Remove the dough to the counter and divide into 12 equal portions shaping each into a tight boule.  Allow to rest for 10 mins.  Roll out the dough into a 5” circle thickest at the center rolling towards the center of the circle. Flour the back of the dough circle then place about 45 g of bbq pork filling in the center.  Form into a bun pleating the dough together at the top.   Place on a 4-inch square of parchment paper.

 

Cover the filled bao with a damp cloth and place in a warm place and allow them to ferment until they pass the poke test.  Using an aliquot jar they should reach about 100% rise.

 

Prepare your steamer setup and bring water to a boil.  Working in batches if necessary, arrange buns in the bamboo steamer spacing 2” apart.  Once the water is boiling turn the heat down to medium.  Steam over boiling water for 10 minutes.  Turn off the heat and leave the buns in the covered steamer for 5 more minutes to prevent collapsing.  (I left them in the steamer and on the same stove element turned off). Do not lift the lid of the steamer, doing so will cause a sudden drop in temperature that can cause the buns to collapse or wrinkle or dent.  Remove the buns from the steamer and allow them to cool for 5 minutes before serving.  

 

Buns can be kept in an airtight container (a resealable bag works great) at room temperature for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Room temperature buns can be reheated in the microwave for 15 to 20 seconds or steamed for about 2 minutes, until soft and warmed through. Reheat frozen buns by steaming until soft and warmed through, 10 to 15 minutes.

 

For those interested, the aliquot jar shown in the photos is made by Billie Olive and it is well designed and easy to use.  I have always found using one helpful when adjusting my bakes when repeating a bread and wanting to increase or decrease the degree of fermentation.  

 

I am doing a giveaway with Billie Olive for one of these aliquot jars on Instagram this weekend.  If you’re interested head over to Instagram and follow me bread_md and you’ll be able to enter the free giveaway for the aliquot jar.  I will be posting the giveaway tomorrow and it will only be open for a short while.

Here’s the link to my Instagram giveaway.


My index of bakes.

pain_de_remesy's picture
pain_de_remesy

A nutritious and delicious bread based on the writings of Christian Rémésy. In the same vein as respectus panis but Rémésy deserves a bread named after him given his outsized influence in the research area of bread nutrition. This bread is typically very dense (which is healthier because lower glycemic load. See:Parameters controlling the glycaemic response to breads.)

For the loaf shown, 800 grams flour, 60% strong white bread flour, with the remainder whole wheat flour. Spelt can also be incorporated as part of the whole wheat fraction, Einkorn as part of the white fraction. This combination of flours should approximate Type 80 flour. Seeds can be added to the flour and incorporated for the fermentation.

66% hydration

1-3% sourdough starter (start with 1% and experiment)

1% salt

Incorporate and do a very short hand mix and knead.

Ferment for at least 20 hours at between 15 and 20 C.

Shape and proof a bit if needed, then bake.

A few more details: In cooler temps I typically warm the water to about 40C and then add the starter to that, mix and swirl around, then let sit a bit. Then add salt to this mixture. The salt helps to regulate the fermentation. The flours should be mixed together then added to the wet mixture. Once incorporated, use a hand for the short knead.

It may be towards 20 or more hours before you see the dough double-ish in volume.

 

 update, a recent seeded loaf baked in a loaf pan:

With pumpkin seeds and dates:

 

 With rye flour (18%)

Benito's picture
Benito

I was disappointed in my last set of baguettes so had to bake another set.  With this set, I was using this new AP flour again and based on the last set decided to go with 76% hydration and do hand mixing so I could better assess how the dough felt.  I also didn’t do any cold retard because the dough in the last set really resisted stretching as it was still a bit cold during shaping.

I have only two baguettes to show this time, one of the shaped and fully proofed baguettes slipped off the transfer board and hit the edge of the countertop and stretched out of shape degassing.  I didn’t bother to bake it.  This dough didn’t resist stretching and in fact I barely had to so any stretching during shaping.  In fact, they ended up a bit too long for the cookie tray that I use to support the couche and the pointy ends ended up sticking to the cookie tray and I had to wrestle them off.  Despite this I am quite happy with this bake.

Another thing I have been exploring is whether more gluten development can allow longer fermentation and still retain the grigne/ears of the baguettes.  I’ve increased the slap and folds up to 260 this time and I really pushed final proofing to a total rise of 50% far greater than what was my standard when I first became adept with baguettes.  Back then I tried to get the baguettes in the oven by 30% rise so 50% is a much more.  The ears were retained and the crumb looked decent.  I think I can push a bit more to 55% with this flour and this degree of gluten development.

gavinc's picture
gavinc

Sourdough with 10% Lupin Flour – test bake 1.

Date baked: 23rd April 2023.

First, a thank you to Debra Wink and Derek Hughes for their valuable advice.

This is a sourdough with 10% lupin flour. Lupin flour does not have any gluten, so experimentation is advised starting at a low per cent. The flour has a yellow colour and has high nutritional value.

I mixed a 1500-gram dough by hand for good gluten development @ 70% hydration. Bulk fermentation took 2 ½ hours with two folds at 50-minute intervals. The dough was shaped into two 750-gram batards and proofed in bannetons for 2 hours @ 24 degrees C. The dough felt light to the touch and scored each longitudinally.

Baked for 43 minutes free-form on stone. 238C for first 15 minutes with steam; 215C for 28 minutes. The oven spring was good and produced a nice ear. The loaves were visually appealing with a golden crust. The weight against volume indicated a light loaf.

The crumb showed a good irregular pattern with a cell structure that was not gummy. While a little tighter than my normal sourdough, was still very acceptable. The crumb colour was a light yellow consistent with the amount of lupin flour.

The taste had a nice nutty flavour that was slightly sweet with a lingering finish and pleasant mouthfeel. My wife commented that it had a wonderful nutty flavour nicer than my normal wheat version.

I will bake this again and will certainly go into the baking rotation.

Benito's picture
Benito

I still have some rhubarb from a friend’s farm from last year frozen in my freezer.  We are hosting a dinner party for neighbours tonight so wanted to bake a pie with a pate brisée pastry crust using the rhubarb.  I couldn’t source any sour cherries so decided to try a spiced peach rhubarb filling for the first time.  I recently purchased a Fat Daddio’s pie dish.  I have always used glass pie dishes because I could see the crust and tell if it was fully baked.  The problem though is that the glass doesn’t heat as quickly as I’d like even with the pie baking on the baking steel on the lowest rack.  This metal pie plate should transfer the heat sooner to the crust so hopefully these juicy filling pies will have a crisp and non soggy bottom.  Another benefit of this pie plate is that it is a bit deeper so more fruit filling is a good thing in my book.

You will need to have a double batch of your favorite pate brisée pastry recipe for this pie.  You can find the one I use in my index here.

Peach Rhubarb Filling

  • 2 1/2 cups sliced rhubarb (about 1/4 in. thick)
  • 2 1/2 cups peaches (peeled and sliced)
  • 1/4 cup brown sugar
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/4 cup cornstarch
  • 1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/8 tsp allspice 
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 3/4 tsp vanilla

 

Put frozen fruits in the dutch oven to defrost with ½ cup of granulated sugar to help macerate.

 

Later add the other ½ cup of granulated sugar to the ¼ cup of cornstarch to loosen the cornstarch and remove the clumps.  Then add the ¼ cup brown sugar and all the spices and salt to the liquid from the fruit. 

 

Will partially cook to thicken a little bit.  Brought up to 155°F so a bit thickened but not fully thick.  Tested the liquid by removing some and microwaving it and it does fully thicken well.

 

Once the bottom pastry is rolled out and transferred to the pie plate cover and place in fridge for at least 30 mins and up to 3 hours allowing the butter to firm up and the gluten to relax before adding the filling and topping with the top pastry.

 

When ready to bake pre-heat oven to 425°F baking at this temperature for 30 mins on the lowest rack on a baking stone or steel.  Watch the edge and protect it from over browning.  

 

After 20 mins shielded the edge and continued to bake at 425°F for another 10 or so mins then shielded the whole pie with a cookie tray and decreased temperature to 350°F and baked until the bottom crust was nicely browned another 60 mins or so. 

My index of bakes.

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